With Nothing Underneath
Built on the belief that great style should feel effortless, With Nothing Underneath champions sustainable production and conscious design.
Guided by a commitment to conscious craftsmanship, sustainable production, and enduring quality, founder and Creative Director Pip Durell shares how a single line in a notebook grew into a modern uniform for women everywhere.
Interview EMILY PETRUCCIONE
Introduction NICOLE GAVRILLES
Images courtesy of WNU
ORIGINS
“To be worn effortlessly, without thought or anything underneath” — you wrote that line in a notebook in 2017. Bring us back to that moment. What were you doing at the time, and how did it spark the beginnings of With Nothing Underneath?
It really came about when I was working at British Vogue, when I needed to be polished and put together and a shirt was always a great ‘uniform’. That sharp and yet undone feel. Slightly sexy – but always in beautiful materials.
The idea started then, but it wasn’t until two years later when I finally thought: let’s see if we could make something beautiful, elegant, ethical and affordable – a shirt that really could be for everyone.
You were searching for shirts perfectly adjusted for women — sustainably made and built to last. What gap did you see in the market that you felt compelled to fill?
In a simple sentence, it is our quality to price point, and the beauty is in its simplicity. We have created beautiful items that last, but with a price point that you don't usually find at this quality. By being a B Corp, we have put our values out there for the world to see, and we uphold ourselves to these standards.
From the very beginning, you promised to ensure WNU shirts were “as good for the planet as they can be.” How did that commitment shape the way you built the brand from day one, and why was it so important to you?
For me, this was just the obvious way to go about things. It’s the way I was raised. Sustainability in clothing to me means items that are made ethically — both in terms of materials and labour — but also garments that stand the test of time. I want people to buy a WNU wool blazer and know that it is going to be in the wardrobe for the next 20, 30, 40 years. It’s timeless in style, but it’s also made with beautiful natural fibres that will grow old with them. That’s just the way I look at clothing.
“By being a B Corp, we have put our values out there for the world to see, and we uphold ourselves to these standards.”
Pip Durell, founder
DESIGN PHILOSOPHY & INSPIRATION
You’ve described WNU as creating “forever items in which to live a life.” What does that phrase mean to you, and how does it guide your design process?
It means we start with the WNU woman. What does she do, how does she live, how do her clothes need to perform for her. It’s the North Star that ties everything together.
When we met your team in New York, your physical moodboards really stood out. Tell us about your process — do you always begin this way, and what tends to spark a new collection’s direction?
I am not the designer, I am the Creative Director, so to start a season I sit down with the design team and talk through everything that is inspiring me – both sartorially and environmentally. It could be a book, or a film, or a particular weave I spotted on a jumper whilst watching a cricket match. It can be through sports, or literature and I think that’s the joy of creation. Especially living in England, we are so spoilt for choice with both historical and modern references surrounding us.
You’ve often referenced women like Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, Jane Birkin, and Charlotte Rampling as muses. What about their style resonates most with you and continues to inform WNU’s aesthetic?
I think it really comes from their confidence and innate sense of self. It’s not so much about what they wear, but the irreverence in how they style their clothes. Their style was simple yet unique — their character flowed through it, and that’s what really resonates in how we want the WNU woman to feel.
What did “English, effortless” dressing mean to you growing up in the UK? Was it reflected in the women around you, or was it more the timeless appeal of men’s shirting that drew you in?
I think there is a nonchalance to British dressing. A laid-back approach which really resonates with my personally. I am not the girl with the manicure, but I will have a great oversized shirt on.
I love the undone, sexy ease of a men’s shirt on a woman and that masculine/ feminine juxtaposition is really what we grew from.
Before launching WNU, you worked in fashion editorial at Vogue and Tatler. How did that experience shape your eye for design and storytelling?
Really it's very similar. In both jobs I am selling a story and a lifestyle through imagery. When I am creative directing our shoots, I really want the environment to tell the story – that’s in everything from the room décor to the clothing styling.
CRAFT & SUSTAINABILITY
WNU began with you tailoring men’s shirts for yourself. How do you think about fit and proportion today, and what makes the perfect WNU shirt? Are there particular details you obsess over when it comes to construction and finish?
For me it starts with the fabric. We use beautiful Irish linens and Italian cottons and British wools. These natural fibres are the linchpin of our quality. From there we look at the cut of each garment; We love a slightly oversized, masculine feel, but it also needs to be friendly to a woman’s body and those pressure points we find in clothes, so we make sure the buttons are in the perfect place, and that the sleeves hit the right length. It’s all about proportion play to ensure a perfect fit.
You use fabrics like TENCEL™ Lyocell and consciously sourced denim. How do you go about finding and testing these materials, and what are the rewards and challenges that come with balancing sustainability and wearability?
The product development team spends a lot of time finding and then trialling and testing new materials. It’s a big commitment and sadly that’s why so many brands do not do it. TENCEL™ Lyocell is a prime example of a huge win in this space. It is the most stunning fabric – both in aesthetics and performance – and we have seen huge sales growth in this category. A win for us and for the planet!
WNU became B Corp certified in 2022 — a major milestone for an independent label. What did that process teach you about building a truly responsible fashion brand?
That it’s really hard! And that we have to take 10 x longer and spend 10 x more on development to do things the right and responsible way. It taught us how multifaceted it is to be responsible. As I touched on above, it’s not just the material or the longevity, but it’s also how you treat your employees, how you treat your customers. It’s a true 360 view into responsible business.
Looking ahead, what areas of innovation or sustainability are you most excited to explore next — whether in materials, supply chain, or circularity?
All of it! We want to be improving across every pillar, and that’s what’s exciting. In terms of circularity, our model of carryover styles and no markdowns means we’re left with very little waste, a stark contrast to most fashion brands, but there’s always more we can do.
Circularity is a continuous journey. We’re currently working with a UK charity called Smart Works, which helps women enter the workplace through mentoring and dressing. We share our stock with them for sales that raise funds, with 100% of profits going directly to the charity. It’s a sustainable way to repurpose deadstock while supporting our local community.
WNU also runs an annual Coat Drive, encouraging customers to donate their old coats to those in need across London. It started in 2021 and has since become an important part of our business calendar.
Our supply chain, materials, and methods of working are continually evolving and improving — areas we’ll be able to share more on in our 2025 Impact Report.
“In terms of circularity, our model of carryover styles and no markdowns means we’re left with very little waste, a stark contrast to most fashion brands, but there’s always more we can do.”
RECENT WORK & REFLECTIONS
You recently launched your FW25 collection — walk us through the inspiration behind it. What are the standout pieces, and how do they reflect WNU’s evolution?
This season started with shirts, of course. Expanding our tuxedo shirt offerings and looking at elongated cuffs and other interesting additions to take the traditional shirt but add a twist. Adding two tailored tuxedo jackets continues that play on borrowed from the boys. We’ve also expanded into woollen knitwear and outerwear. The coat in particular is a big step for us. It’s a beautiful Car Coat in 100% organic Italian cotton named after the English stately home, Chatsworth. She really is a piece to last a lifetime.
As we move into the cooler months, what’s your favorite way to layer WNU, and how do you personally wear it day to day?
I am pretty much always in our Rampling trousers and then rotate a WNU t-shirt/shirt/jumper. The Rampling trousers were designed just as our shirts are – in beautiful material, with a flattering cut and easy drape. I wear them with a shirt to work and then a bomber jacket to the park at the weekend. It’s easy, effortless dressing and I look put together even when wrestling a toddler into nursery at 8am.
The most rewarding response you’ve received from someone wearing With Nothing Underneath?
We received a review saying, ‘the boy I fancy said: “nice shirt”’. Iconic.
Finally, what’s something surprising about you that people might not know — either personally or in how you run the brand?
I actually didn’t go to university—I started my career straight out of school at 18, stepping into my first role as a PA at Condé Nast. It wasn’t the conventional path, but it’s shaped how I run the brand.
Inspired by men’s tailoring, British heritage and timeless style, WNU was started in 2017 out of our founder’s personal search for shirts that were perfectly adjusted for women, sustainably sourced and stood the test of time. For more information, visit withnothingunderneath.com
Images courtesy of With Nothing Underneath
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We spoke with founder and creative director Pip Durell about the origins of With Nothing Underneath and how conscious craftsmanship, sustainable production, and a commitment to enduring quality have shaped the brand’s effortlessly timeless approach to dressing.